While thinking through and laying out my structural system, I sketched a few details of how the exterior skin and the structural system will interact. Not 100% decided on the exterior skin, but working through that. Yes, I'm old school... I like sketching out the detials before cadding everything!
3 comments:
David,
Nice Details.
I was looking at the tapered insulation in your roof deck detail. Do you intend for that to be at all the parapet walls? Will it all be tapering to the center or is it tapering off to a specific edge?
Don’t forget that we need to have everything on piles. Do you know where those will be located?
The details are good but you’ll also need an overall idea that is presented in either a floor plan or description or such. Have you figured out the sizes of your bays?
It is great to see you utilizing the concrete that you weren’t so sure of at the intensive. Keep up the good work.
Ignore the Concrete Beam! While meeting with the structural engineer, he told me I wouldn't need the beams as the post tensions will site directly on the columns. Guess that’s why I went with a structural system I didn’t know…. to learn!
Jaclyn, yes I intend to have tapered insulation everywhere, and slope toward the center to drains that will carry the water to the storm water storage for reuse. Exact location of the drains is TBD. Taking the water to the center keeps the taper around the edge lower. Yes I remember the soils will require piles and I have located them with my structural sections and plans (posting hopefully later today, if Revit will let me!) Still learning!
Thanks for the comments
David,
Nice start on the details. Especially a week ahead of schedule. A few remarks: we used American hydrotech (www.hydrotechusa.com) for a large roof garden over a concrete roof. We build a “bath tub” without slope to drain (check out their literature) and built the roof garden up with a few layers of rigid insulation. I’m happy you can loose your edge beams, or at least significantly reduce their size, this way you have a better chance of getting the exterior well insulated. I would suggest to space the precast about 2 inches away from the slab edge to allow enough distance for insulation and fire stopping. Make sure your insulation can be applied continuously (also in soffit) and with as few thermal brakes as possible. Apply 2-3 inches of foam to the back of the precast and add 2 ½” studs outside this insulation area. The studs interrupting the insulation act like the fins on a heat sink, thus reducing the actual insulation value of your 2-3” of foam significantely.
Post a Comment